How to Check Electrical fullwave

Electrical systems on motorcycles consists of three essential components:

     Alternator (consisting of a stator / rotor magnetic spool +), its function is to generate electricity (AC) the conversion of mechanical energy.
     Regulator (kiprok), functions to convert AC power into DC (rectifying) and limit the output voltage (regulating). DC power is later distributed to the battery (charging) and other electrical paraphernalia that require DC power.
     Batteries (battery), its function as a DC power source and store electrical energy.

All three of these components MUST be in good condition in order to produce optimum power. If one of them knockouts, little / much will affect the overall electricity. In addition to these components, other important parts that must always be maintained condition is CABLE electricity as "highway" for electric current.
  
Basic electrical scheme
There are times when the electrical system modified fullwave not as smooth as expected. Output is not optimal, overdrawn, etc.. What is wrong? Do you have a broken / error? Let's check slowly. But please first prepare digital multimeter, again if there is a nice tang and gentlemen amperes.
A. Check the Stator (Spool)

     Disconnect the stator cable socket.
     Check the "continuity" of the stator coil wire:
     Set the multimeter to the range of "continuity" (usually a symbol or diode buzzer)
     Position the probe (tester) red spool on one of the lines of charging (point A on the schematic above) and black probe on the path to the spool charging the other one (point B on the schematic above).
     If multimeter reads, coil lines in good condition (no one is dropped). If not sound, cable or wire coil means there are broken.
     Check the "continuity" of the stator coil to ground:
     Set the multimeter to the range of "continuity" (usually a symbol or diode buzzer)
     Position the probe (tester) red spool on one of the lines of charging (point A on the schematic above) and black probe on ground / mass / order.
     If multimeter reads, meaning the coil is connected to ground.
     Do the same on the other spool path (point B on the schematic above).
     For a multi-phase stator (3-phase or more), do the same for each spool filling lines.
     Measure the stator coil wire barriers:
     Set the multimeter to the range "200 ohm"
     Position the probe (tester) red spool on one of the lines of charging (point A on the schematic above) and black probe on the spool path charging the other one (point B on the schematic above). Resistance values ​​were read on a multimeter should be <1 ohm. If> 1 ohm, wire coil already in the saturated condition and should be replaced (roll back). If the numbers on the multimeter does not budge, then there is a path-breaking (cable or wire stator coil).
     Measure the output of the stator:
         Make sure the battery in full-charge condition (for motors with DC CDI).
         Turn the engine on idle RPM and minimum electrical load (headlights and dusk light OFF).
         Set the multimeter to the range "200V AC".
         Position the probe (tester) red & black on each spool output (points A and B on the scheme above).
         Minimal stator output not less than 10V AC. If less than that, the possibility of jamming stator short or ground. If short, roll back or replace new! If nge-ground, check again from the first step

B. Check Regulators

     Replace the stator cable socket.
     Measure the output of the stator:
         Measure the stator output as in step A5 and compare with the results of measurement in step A5.
         If the difference / down a lot, chances are regulators short (shunting). Replace the regulator!
     Measure the output of the regulator:
         Set the multimeter to the range "20V DC".
         Position the probe (tester) red on the positive battery terminal and the black probe on the negative terminal / ground battery.
         Turn on the machine at idle RPM with headlights and dusk lights OFF.
         Reads the voltage value must go up in stages ... eg 11.9V, 12.0V, 12.3V, and so on.
         Raise RPM to around 3000 reads the voltage value could rise to 14 ~ 15V DC, or at least not higher than the voltage at idle RPM.
         If the voltage tends to decrease with increase in RPM, the possibility of short regulator. Replace the regulator!
         If the voltage rises> 16V or more, the possibility of the regulator voltage limiter circuit is damaged. Replace the regulator!

C. Check the Battery (Aki)

     Make sure the ignition is in the OFF position.
     Disconnect all cables attached to the negative and positive battery terminal. Make sure the start of the negative terminal first!
     Measure the battery voltage:
         Set the multimeter to the range "20V DC"
         Position the probe (tester) red on the positive battery terminal and the black probe on the negative terminal / ground battery.
         In full-charged state, the battery voltage in the range of 12.7 ~ 12.8V.
         In conditions of low, battery voltage in the range of 12.3V.
         If the battery voltage drops rapidly, the possibility of battery worn / damaged. Replace the battery!
     Measuring the level of electrical current leakage:
         Replace the cables that connect the battery positive terminal.
         Set the multimeter to the range "20mA".
         Position the probe (tester) red on the negative battery terminal and the black probe to the battery ground cable.
         Current value should not be read> 0.5mA. If so, chances are there lines / cables are short.
     Self-Discharge:
         Automatic battery discharge periodically experience (self-discharge) even in conditions not installed. In general, 1% capacity is reduced every day, and the temperature dependent. In hot temperatures will be faster and cooler temperatures will be slower.